Silverado :: Plastic Coupling Between Core And Hose Remove From Heater Core?
Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: How To Remove Heater Core Hose Connection
I have a new hose I need to install because the one on now is cracked... I have pulled the metal clip down, but how do I remove this so I can install the new one? I don't want to break anything else yanking on it too hard.
View 5 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 - Checking AC Evaporator Core For Leaks
Is there anyway to check the ac evaporator core for leaks without removing the dash and the evaporator core box and opening the ac system? I've got a UV light and the dye is already in. My sense tells me there's no easy way out of this, but maybe one of you has figured out a work around. The vehicle is a 2001 V6 Escape.
View 6 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: Rubber Brake Hose Replacement?
Removing the old cracked rubber brake line hoses on my daughters 2003 Ford Escape. Front left no problem. Old off, new on in 5 minutes. All the other won't come free. Can break nut loose, but just spins & spins. What is going on here? Did search and should be very easy.
View 6 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 V6 - Rubber Brake Hose Failure
Subject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 - Emergency Vacuum Hose Identification
I simply cannot find a proper and complete vacuum diagram for this 2001 Escape V6. (The sticker has been removed from the car.)
The car is hard to start - very hard, but once warm it manages to run ok. There vacuum hose way down low, on the back of the block and under the starter, impossible to see but if my fingers aren't lying it's very near the knock sensor? This hose is rotten and disconnected at the top - it's just laying there kinda under the throttle body.
For the life of me I cannot a) identify what the hose goes to and b) figure out where to plug it back in. There are no empty ports I can find anywhere within reach of the floppy end of the hose.
Ford A/C :: 2005 - Front Heater Core Always On
2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: A/C And Heater Fan Not Working Properly / No Air Comes Out On 1 - 3 Speeds
I am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
View 7 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 Ford Escape Transmission Fluid Change
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - AC / Heater Blower - Air Only Blows From Front Vents Towards Face
The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: External Diameter Of Air Cleaner Hose?
2004 Echo. Looking for measurement for the external diameter of the Air Hose for me?
Tried googling, but didn't find any specs for it. Don't have access to my car at the moment (and for a while actually), but I might need to get a coupler..
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Small Diameter Rubber Hose Dangling From Front Driver Side Brake Housing Area
I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
View 4 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Key Fob Programming?
I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
View 9 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - No Heat From Blower Below 30 MPH
I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
View 9 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Crank Over / No Start
I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 XLT Jerks To The Left
2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Won't Shift Out Of Park?
2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
View 2 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Died Then Won't Restart Or Jumpstart
I was leaving work in my 05 Escape. Started up fine, made it to the other end of the parking lot and it died. Restarted it and made it about 10 feet and it died again. Now when I try to start it, it just make a single click. Tried getting a jump from a friend and nothing but the same click when trying to start it. Lights are bright (haven't checked batt voltage yet, but will tomorrow).
View 6 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Idle Jumping Up And Down When Start Every Once In A While
I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
View 9 Replies