Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2012 - Cooling Fan Runs On High As Soon As AC Turned On

The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Worn Rubber Radiator Mounts?

My ten year old ford escape has a clunking sound up in the engine compartment when I go over speed bumps, like something is loose and is banging around (yes, I know the car is ten years old). I think I figured it out... I just noticed the radiator is a little loose and can bang around? There are two posts at the top of the radiator that go into two little rubber grommets in metal supports. you can see the posts in the grommets when you open hood right up front. anyway, the inside of the grommet is bigger than the outside diameter of the post so the post can shake around. Do these grommets wear over the years, and is it possible to just replace the rubber grommet and not the whole support?

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: Engine Stalls - Runs Fine After Key Cycle

2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.

She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.

Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.

Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2012 - Engine Fan Runs At Maximum Speed?

I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.

I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.

I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?

Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 Barely Runs After Heavy Rain / Missing Really Bad

I have a 2001 Escape I bought new so many years ago. It only has 90k miles. The other day I drove it to work running fine. It rained REALLY hard that day and when I came out to go home it would barely start, missing really bad. Limped it home and into my garage where I examined it for water under the hood. Nothing. Started pulling things apart, nothing on the engine, around the coils, in the spark plug conduits, etc., dry as a bone. Let it sit for a couple of days and no change. Replaced the coils just for grins. Drained the fuel from the injector assy, looking for water. Nada. Verified spark, fuel, compression. Still, very difficult to start and when it does it's only running on cyls 1,2 & 3 because I can disconnect the coils on 4,5,6 and it makes no difference.

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Touareg :: Radiator Fan Runs After The Engine Is Off

I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.

But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.

I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop.

Here is the previous battery link. [URL] .....

(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).

And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.

I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model. [URL] ....

Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.

If this is a normal situation, I checked online, a lot of people don't take it serious and say it is the way it's designed to be. One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.

I have two questions,

1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)

2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive.

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Corolla :: 1990 - Radiator Fan Runs Always With Key On?

the radiator fan runs always with key on. Since it is driven only up to 10- 15 miles and Honolulu is warm I haven't been too diligent in finding the problem. Will it wear the fan motor out prematurely (110 K on engine)?

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Touareg :: 2004 - Radiator Fan Still Runs Even Engine Is Off?

I got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.

But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.

I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop

(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).

And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.

I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,

Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.

One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.

I have two questions,

1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)

2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2008 - Radiator Fan Runs Constantly

I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?

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Toyota :: 1990 - Truck Radiator Runs Dry All The Time

I have a 1990 Toyota pick up and, even though I have had the radiator removed and tested twice for leaks, I still loose fluid. I drive 30 miles - after having filled the radiator to the top - and then find it empty. The overflow radiator fluid bottle is always full to the top but the radiator will not stay full. My radiator man has told me to place a large piece of cardboard under the car to see if there are any leaks - there are non. I pay more in coolant than I do in fuel!

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Dodge - Neon :: 2001 - Runs Hot / Radiator Fan Turns Off When Engine Is Shut Off

My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.

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Ford - Suspension :: 2007 - Runs In High RPM / When Put Car In Park Seems Like Gas Pedal Hold Down Slightly

My 2007 Ford Focus runs in high rpm. When I put the car in park it sounds like someone is slightly holding gas pedal down. I have to use brake when on road more frequently. Vehicle will run over 25 miles per hour without touching gas pedal.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: High Rev At Startup - Over Runs Weird When Cold

I have a 2003 f350 6.0 and did head studs with the egr delete and Warren diesel Injectors 155cc. I have both warrens tunning and loney wild tunes.

In all the tunes when i first start the truck up after sitting for a while it will rev real high. Like when i was a kid and tried to impress someone and catch the motor as soon as it fired up and rev it real quick. I mean it sounds cool but i don't want it to do it for obvious reasons. It also gets out of control when you are driving it down the road until its warmed up. If you just try and drive it normal it will start to take off once it gets around 1500 rpms unless you really feather the peddle. Its almost as if its getting to much fuel but it does it with both tunes.

In the tow mode the truck tows like crap. I can literally have the peddle to the floor and it struggles to move a 10k car trailer. I really just wanted a more fuel efficient truck that had a little pep. Now i wished i had left it stock with the new studs.

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Ford - Escape :: 2004 - High Pitched Idle

Earlier this year, I had to have my alternator changed out in my 04 Ford Escape - the local shop installed a re-manufactured part to save me a bit of money (which was fine with me, considering the brand new alternator I had had installed needed to be replaced after a year and a half). For the most part, the car works fine, but when it is idling (especially after a cold start) there is a constant high pitched "whir" sound. I have also noticed the lights dim a bit when more systems are used, but nothing ever stops working. I have had the alternator checked 3 times now, but each time it is charging the car normally. What could be causing this?

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Taurus :: 2011 Ford - Check Engine Light On But Car Runs Fine

The check engine light came on again after coming on about a week ago and then shutting of by itself. Everything seems to run normal with the car so I don't know if I should ignore the light and just keep driving or what. What would you do? My car is a 2011 Ford Taurus.

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Ford - Escape :: 2001 - Engine Misfires Under High Load And Low RPM

I have an 2001 Ford Escape V6 3.0, about 130,000 miles. When the engine gets under high load and low RPM, before downshifting, it will shudder (misfire?). Local shop couldn't reproduce it, but they thought it might have to do with slightly cracked vaccume hose, which they gouged me to replace. No improvement. Next they wanted $700 to replace Valve Cover Gaskets. I decided to become a mechanic and learn how to do that one myself. Sure enough, there was a little oil dripping onto one plug. I replaced the gaskets and all 6 spark plugs successfully. Still didn't fix the problem though.

Symptoms will occur reliably when driving at 45-50 MPH with the transmission in overdrive (1500 RPM), and I begin a slight incline. The vehicle will kind of chug forward (feels like sporatic misfires) in overdrive, getting down to 1200 RPM before deciding to downshift. Generally, I can just give a little more gas to force downshift and avoid the nasty-feeling misfires. Some days, however, it is much worse, and will misfire at idle, and make me feel like I have to treat the gas as an on/off switch to keep the engine from dying. (It has never actually died.)

During a really bad day, I got a flashing check engine light. I did not check codes in time - they've all cleared.

I now have an ODB2 reader logging real-time data. All I can do is prove the conditions that cause the symptom: high engine load at low RPM is the recipe. Nothing seems to show a cause... I may just not know what I'm looking at :-/ . I haven't monitored long enough to record a 'bad' day.

I've read about ignition coil issues on this engine, and weather might explain why this is worse some times than others. However, I wouldn't expect that to be load dependant.

Most of the time it feels like the transmission just isn't shifting when it's supposed to, but on the bad days it seems more than transmission related. When stopped at a light in Drive, this can still occur.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: High Mileage Eco Boost Motors?

We are looking at buying the new style Escape, either new or a few years old, but I'm worried about the life of an Eco Boost motor (a 4cyl. turbo scare me).

We drive around 25-30k miles a year, and would like keep it past the 200+k mile mark. I'm concerned about a turbo charge motor holding up that long and what type of issues would i have to look forward too?

We have a 2008 Mariner AWD with the V6 it has 200+k miles on it and it's been an awesome little SUV. i want the same quality in my next vehicle too.

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2011 - Dreaded Leaking Radiator

Ok I now have the dreaded leaking radiator on my 2011. I am wondering how the aftermarket radiators are holding up? I was talking with my local radiator repair shop and they have been repairing the oe radiator with good results. They also claim that they have repaired some aftermarket radiators. He did not mention any brand names so I can not make any claims against them. I am considering a mishimoto replacement.

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Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 V6 - Hard To Start And Revs Really High

2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...

When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!

Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...

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