Ford - Escape :: 2003 - EGR Valve Blown Out
This happened on the way to church Sunday morning. Got in cranked up and headed out. Car would not accelerate beyond 40mph and would not shift gears. Drove like this for a few miles and as some others have stated......there sounded like an explosion and then whistling and spewing of air. I pulled over think it was a a radiator or hose issue. Didn't know anything about an EGR valve.....NOT a mechanic. Drove the car back home. Like others have stated......after it blew.....then the car drove just fine. Daughters boyfriend identified the problem.
Bought a new valve and installed. Got out on the highway and had exactly the same problem .......would not accelerate beyond 40 or change gears. Then within 3 miles the EGR valve blew again and then the car drove fine. Needless to say I will NOT be putting on another valve....as that's not my core problem.I was wondering if any of the other Escape owners had determined the cause of the blown valves? At this point, I'm just hoping I can last long enough to buy another car. But I would like to know what type of issue I'm dealing with.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 V6 - Location Of PCV Valve
My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
View 7 RepliesFord - Escape :: Stalls When Braking - Bad Idle Air Control Valve
I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
View 7 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: EVAP Purge Flow Valve Sticking
Replacing part 9C915 ?
"CODE P0443 canister purge fault" diagnosed....
Found: EVAP PURGE FLOW VALVE STICKING
Recommending: "Diag, Replace sensor then retest" ....
They want to install a new 9C915 which they called in hand writing a Canister purge sensor but I've seen it called a canister purge valve on another thread by FIREME who puts 9C915 as "toward the driver's headlight assembly, near the radiator. You'll need an 8mm socket to remove it"...
3.0L DURATEC FFV V6 ENGINE
From the "newly washed ashore" who's now double posting after being flogged for trying to keep this info in a single thread rather than spreading it all over the place...
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 - EGR Valve Is Sticking And Cylinder 2 Is Not Firing
I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
View 7 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2012 XLT - Evap Purge Valve Location?
Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
Passat (B6) :: Exhaust Sounded Like It Has A Leak - Possible Blown Diverter Valve?
Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 V6 - Misfire / Valve Cover Seal Was Leaking
My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 3.0L Running Rough And Died / Coil 3 Bad And EGR Valve Broken
My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
View 11 RepliesFord - Escape :: Rough Idle And Way Below 500 RPMs To The Point Where It Almost Stalls
I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
View 2 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: RPMs Revved To About 5000 From Cruising RPM Of 2200
Ok, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
View 14 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2005 - Dies At 4000 RPMs / High Temp Engine
My hybrid has been a great car, owned 3 years. Now have problem: runs great but if going higher speed 65 and pulls hill needing to kick in to 4000rpms it dies right away says high temp engine but does not smell hot or need water. Let it sit for 15 minutes (even though will start right away but might keep dying unless sits). Will run fine unless hits higher rpms then dies again. 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid...
View 5 RepliesFord - Escape :: 2006 - Ran Out Of Gas And Won't Start - Shudders On Low RPMs And Does Not Choke Out At High Revs
So my story starts simple enough; I ran out of gas in my buddy's car, filled it back up, it finally started but ran like >poop< for the first 10 min or so. Finally after coaxing for 10-15 min, she stays coming around. After 30 min or so of driving, I could drive her all I wanted, so long as I didn't let it idle below 12-1500 rpm. If I did that, she'd kill, and stall out. Well I drove her the other day for most the day and it seemed the kinks were worked out. So today when I tried to drive her round the block for a final check, she up and dies, and hasn't started since. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the intake, and dropped a can of sea foam in to the tank to boot, but no dice.Signs and symptoms seem to mimic a bad mass air flow sensor or possibly a clogged catalytic converter, with the exception that it only shudders and acts congested on low rpm's and doesn't choke out at high revs.
View 15 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 Engine Idle RPMs Always Higher That 1000
I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 - High Idle / RPMs Shoot Up To About 3000
When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
View 3 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: High Shifting Point From Normal - 3500 RPMs
I was preparing my sons 2004 escape (3.0L) for a vacation by changing out the spark plugs. When done, I noticed that the engine lacks power during acceleration and has a very high shifting point from normal (3500 rpm). There were no DTC's set so I took it all apart again, this time changing the intake manifold gaskets both upper and lower. I put it all back together and have the same issue. I have double checked (actually quadruple checked) all of the vacuum lines and electronic connections but to no avail. The truck still has very poor power, at idle it bottoms out around 500 rpm. From a start at a stop sign, with the pedal floored it takes a city block to get up to 35 mph. Where I can look next?
View 9 RepliesFord Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 Flooding Out - RPMs Go Up Then Drops Down When Start The Truck And Choke Off
I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
View 3 RepliesGolf/GTI VI :: Hesitating As Accelerated Past 2500 - 3500 RPMs - Ignition Coil Blown
So over the last couple of days my GTi has been hesitating as I accelerated past 2500-3500 rpms so I took it in to the dealer this morning to have them look at and sure enough, it had blown an Ignition Coil.
I know this was a common issue with the 1.8l Turbo engines but I thought this had been corrected in the new models.
I have a '10 GTi with 14000 km's on it and some mods (see signature). And no, they didn't comment or ask about the APR chip or intake.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 - Blown Out Tires Thrice?
Three times I've had a blown out tire on my '02 F350 crew cab/long bed 4x4 V10 while driving long distances on the freeway. Twice drivers rear, once drivers front.
All 3 times were in warm weather (85-95F). First time (rear) was on the Yokahama's which were on the truck when I bought it and a bit oversized. The date code says they were 10 years old, so I replaced all the tires with OEM sized BFG Rugged Terrains. Then it happened again- front last October. Did about $4K worth of damage. Now my buddy, called me up saying it happened to him (rear) while he was borrowing my truck for a trip.
In the first first two cases, I noticed a wobble. The second time wasn't as bad and stopped when slowed down (75 to 65mph), but it still blew. I specifically mentioned this to my friend to be on the look out and he said it never wobbled, but prior to it blowing the truck started to pull to the left.
In all three cases, the truck wasn't towing anything, but had stuff in the bed. The first two times I was taking my race motorcycle to the track, so probably had about 800lbs worth of gear in the bed & cab. My buddy was probably carrying less weight, but I'm not exactly sure how much. Before my buddy borrowed the truck I set the tires to 70PSI since he was going to drive 400mi down to Barstow and then some light offroading on BLM land.
The alignment was done after October and it has four new shocks. Tires look great, have maybe 15K miles and I rotate them every 5K miles. The only mods to the truck are swapping the 4" F350 rear axle blocks with the 2" F250 to lower the bed.