Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2001 - Getting Codes For Both Wheels ABS?
F350 2001.
Constantly throwing codes for both front wheel's ABS. Ohm'd out both sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out wires leading to sensors - same reading
Ohm'd out rear diff speed sensor against a new one - same reading.
Pulled front sensor's cleaned and put my fingers in the sensor hole. What should I be able to feel? I'm wondering if the previous owner put non ABS hubs on?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Zf6 Clutch Options That Will Hold 550hp At The Wheels
So I have the luk full ceramic clutch now, this is my second one (about every year it needs replaced) and it's getting close to needing a new clutch again. Right now my 7.3 is sitting at 442hp and 864 TQ. Im Building a forged rod motor with the idea of getting 5-550 HP to the wheels out of it and hitting the 1000 TQ mark. What clutch will hold that and not chatter and try to knock my teeth out like my current clutch. The closer to a stock clutch engagement feel the better, I hate backing up or starting out with a load more than 10k (I have to start in low, or 4wd low to backup). Truck is a 01 crew cab, on 35's stock gears may be going to a 6" and 37's in the future but that's it.
View 5 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Oil Change Intervals?
If I switch to synthetic will I be able to stretch out my changes? Currently do it @ 5k miles with rotella triple, was thinking about trying T6 and extending changes to 8k miles
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: How Often Change Synthetic Oil
Mechanic at work told me to run 10-15 k.
My truck is my daily driver for work and such. Occasional 300 mile round trips to see family.
Last time I changed my oil was in June. And I've put about 6500 miles on it.
I run royal purple 15-40
I just not sure what to believe. Maybe someone has a link to an article ?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Ring And Pinion Change?
I have a 1999 7.3 psd F-450. It's rigged out for welding with a Lincoln SA-200 engine driven welder. My overall weight is approx. 11,500 lbs. and I rarely tow with it. It has a 4 speed automatic and 4.89 ratio gears in it now. I bought it with 245/70/19.5 tires. Stock size is 225/70/19.5. I am going broke trying to keep the fuel light from staying on all the time, and I am considering changing the gear ratio. My questions are; Is this a wise investment, as far as cost vs. gain? I also need to know if it may create a higher risk of other mechanical failures? I need to research what other ring and pinion ratios can be used in the ford 10.5 12 bolt rear axle. Money is hard to come by these days, and even harder to keep. I cannot afford a costly mistake if the funds can be more effective elsewhere.
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Glow Plug Change / Oil In Turbo
I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Intermittent Crank With No Start After Oil Change
I did a bunch of reading before I bought this truck, and the seller said it really just needed a new battery as far as he could tell... When I bought it, I drove a considerable distance with no problems, other than it seeming to be a little sluggish with acceleration.
I have not seen any leaks anywhere, and all of the visible reservoirs appear to be nominal. No odd exhaust (really clean/invisible, in fact). No weird sounds, and running engine has a pretty even sounding cadence.
I initially changed all of the shocks because the old ones appeared to be original and were severely corroded/rusted. There is some surface rust elsewhere as this truck was apparently used in agricultural setting.
I replaced the battery and it was starting fine for a few weeks, but it would intermittently crank with no start, and would sometimes die within a few minutes after starting. I also charged the a/c with 134a, and it is blowing cold.
So... yesterday, I changed the oil, and installed a Fram Tough-Guard filter and precisely 15 quarts of oil (dipstick shows right level). I also changed the air filters, and disassembled and reassembled the air-cleaner to turbo hoses. While the hoses were disassembled, I took off the relays (AIH/GPR) and reinstalled an aftermarket GPR (crappy foreign-made one). No start. Several times. I reinstalled the original GPR. No start. Several times.
Even tried to jump it from my running Explorer. Still no start. (When I say no start, I mean that it will crank, but not turn over).
I am scheduled to take this truck into the dealership tomorrow for the recall issues (CPS), but I can't drive it there right now. Did I mess something up with the crappy GRP? Why wouldn't it start after reinstalling the original?
Another observation -- I had my batteries tested just now, and they are around 60%. I have ordered a new Alternator because this one looks original and is likely not charging the batteries. Still, I figured if I jumped it, it would start.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Injector Solenoid Color Change With Mileage?
Does the yellow injector solenoid cap change color with mileage and age?
I have a guy that has a set of injectors out of a truck that got scrapped. He's estimating mileage at 40k based on the fact that they caps are still yellow claiming that caps start to discolor around 60k and they get darker with miles/age.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No Brakes Or Power Steering
I've got an 01 7.3 lariat 4x4 with an 03 7.3 engine in it (long story behind that) but basically I noticed one day I had a hissing underneath my dash and my brake pedal was a little spongy but my truck stopped, well before I could get it to a shop and checked out it went bad. Coming up to a stop sign and as normal hit my brakes and right before it came to a complete stop the pedal shot to the floor and I lost power steering as well as brakes and went rolling out in the road and almost got hit. So it's been parked ever since and I have changed the hydroboost, the power steering pump twice, flushed everything and bled everything and still nothing, can't even find any leaks. What to even replace now or whether to just take it to a shop and spend another small fortune.
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Hard To Steer - Sometimes Lose All Power Brakes
I've got an E99 powerstroke. Recently it's been getting hard to steer, if not impossible. When I'm parked i can't turn the wheel and it gets better if i Rev the engine up, driving is usually ok and going around corners. It's just low speed, low rpm that it won't.
Also every once in a while when braking it feels like i lose all power brakes. The pedal goes to the floor and the brakes let go, then i can feel the pedal pump back up and i get a good feeling brake pedal again that actually stops well. All this happens within about a seconds time. But the steering is by far the worst.
I just did the power steering flush with atf and it didn't work. I'm thinking i need a new power steering pump, but want to ask here first to make sure. The truck has 290,000 on it, and it never has been replaced to my knowledge. I bought the truck with 147,000 however so it may have been done before that.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No Brakes On Interstate
My husband is on the interstate on his way home from work. His brakes went out, completely!!! No e-brake either! he replaced master cylinder about a month ago, brakes worked ok for about a week and started messing up again. Now he has no brakes what-so-ever... is there anything he can do to get home safely? I believe he has hydroboost unit.. he mentioned before a tiny leak from ps pump... brake pedal goes all the way to floor... no stopping..
View 12 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Lost Power Steering And Brakes / Pump Started Growling
Driving home from movies tonight, I lost power steering and power brakes and the pump started growling. Looked in the reservoir and it was all foamed up. Within the last 20k mi I have flushed the system and refilled with power steering fluid. No apparent leaks at this time. And happened like someone flipped a switch. Fine one turn, nothing the next. What are the chances this is a fluid issue and not a mechanical one? Start with flushing system and adding Mercon V? Or is it likely pump is damaged?
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Poor Parking Brakes?
Looking for some tried and true fix to make these parking brakes hold just a little? Winter coming and with a six speed would like some resemblence of a brake....short of a brick in the drive. I have adjusted.....no luck. New cables ( thinking maybe stretched)..no luck. Shoes are new. Did notice levers where cable attach look to be worbled out.....gonna try to tighten that are up a little to see if that works but.
View 7 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: No Brakes / Steering Making U-Turn
Was making a U-turn, and out of no where, had no brakes and no steering.. Not a fun situation to be in....
View 14 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Brakes Sometimes Soft Other Times Firm
So the other day I had someone change lanes and slam on the binders right in front of me which caused me to slam on mine. Luckily no one got hit. Now my brakes feel different. Sometimes the pedal feels nice a firm other times it pushes in 2-3" before starting to brake. The fluid level has not changed in the resevoir and the hydroboost appears to be working fine. The power steering is still operating as before. I have checked the calipers and none are leaking.
My suspect is the master cylinder but was wondering if the symptoms are common with the master cylinder failing? I'm thinking internal o-ring has failed due to the near accident event. I'm going to do power steering flush just because I never have. Is there anything that would display these symptoms that I could check before buying the master cylinder?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Brakes Overheating - Front Right Rotor And Hub Very Hot
I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: F250 - Brakes Shudder While Stopping
I just bought my first truck and it is a 1999 (Made in late 1998) F250 7.3 Super Duty it is 2WD with rear ABS and has 290k miles on it.
It has what seems to be the common brake shudder while stopping. I know the only solution is to replace the rotors and I have been looking all over the forums and internet and just don't know what to go with.
I'll be using the truck to do light farm work, pickup lumber, get a bed load of dirt and maybe pull a normal car trailer every now and then.
I'm wanting to get something that will prove to be trouble free long term and be good enough for what I need with out over paying for something that I will never fully utilize. I have looked at
R1 Concepts
Frozen Rotor
EBC - which doesn't have 2wd front rotors
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2002 F250 - Truck Jumps When First Step On Brakes
Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Smoking Brakes / Puff Of Smoke At The Front
Picked up my 5th wheel this afternoon from being raised 3". Dropped over the 10 percent grade down the hill to normal driving. Had the trailer brake controller to boost #2 (Prodigy controller). Had to brake pretty continuously, (tried to stay off it a bit, but is is about 10 grade for about 3/4 mile. Put the auto trans in D2 to get brakes come to the red light at the bottom. Noticed a puff of smoke at the front. Driver side, didn't notice passenger side.
New pads and new slotted rotors new maybe 1,500 miles ago. Not liking that action, but need thoughts. Want to put a thousand or 2 miles towing this summer and accompanying mountainous terrain and back.
2000 F350 Lariat Super Duty 7.3 4x4 NOT a dually.