Mazda6 :: 2009 - Revs Go Up But Car Is Slow To Accelerate When Press On Gas

I have a Mazda 6i Touring 2009 (2.5L, 4Cyl.) with an engine failure. I don’t have any power. When I press on the gas, the revs go up but the car is slow to accelerate, hesitates and I get a CEL. So, I connected the car to an OBDII reader and got these two codes; P0403 and P2188.

I then went to my mechanic and had the vehicle tuned-up. I did an oil change, spark plugs change (The 2 in the middle were black, burned. The other 2 were OK) and a radiator flush. The car was still having the same problem so we decided to clean the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the EGR valve. Also, the air filter is OK.

After putting everything back in place, he also checked for a vacuum leak but didn’t find any.

We went for a ride and at first, it seemed a little bit better but after the car got warmer, same problem… I connected the car again and we got 3 more codes; P061B, P0300 and P2187. He deleted the EGR valve and we went for a ride to see if it was the problem but it felt the same.

He then decided to go for the injectors. After listening to the injectors, he found that the two in the middle are pulsating a lot faster than the other two on each side. So, this is probably why the system is too rich...

My mechanic connected a system to clean the injectors, took the rail out and tested them and said they were working fine, they are not clogged and have no leaks. He then switched the injectors to make sure. He put the 2 in the middle at the extremities and vice-versa. Same thing, the two in the middle were pulsating a lot faster than the other two even after being changed. So, this proved that the problem is not the injectors.

He took the new spark plugs out to check and the two in the middle were black burned while the other two were perfect. He also switched the coils just to see and the problem remains.

He doesn’t know what else to try… Even bought another PCM and programmed it to see if that was the problem but no, it does the same with the other PCM connected.

And same codes come out. Here with a freeze frame:

Confirmed Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)

[Code] ....

And just found out that the oil smells like gas .... Why are only those 2 middle injectors receiving a signal to squirt more gas than the other two? What is going on? What could be the problem???

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Golf IV R32 :: Significant Lag When Press The Throttle

I had this same issue on my old 03 GTI. Trying to blip the throttle on downshifts there's a significant lag when I press the throttle to when the rpms actually spin up. Nearly a second I'd say. Goes towards feeling like the pedal is very disconnected from the motor. I know it's drive by wire and maybe that's the problem but perhaps there's a maf mod or something I can do to improve the response. The car has a vf stage 1 SC kit on it.

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Celica :: 2000 - When Idle And Hit The Gas It Bogs Like Going To Stall But Then Revs Up

I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S.

When ever it is idleing and i hit the gas it bogs like its going to stall but then revs up. Difficult to get out of first because of the bog might stall it. My check engine light came on and it said rich fuel as well as oxygen sensor. Do the oxygen sensor would cause this because their are 2 and are expensive if I change it and turns out not to be the prob.

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2009 - When Press Throttle Cannot Go Over 1000 - 1100 RPM

I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?

The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.

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Celica :: Makes Loud Creek / Popping Noise

I recently crashed my celica into a curb and had to replace the ball joint and the lower control arm on the right side. everything went well for a while but now there is a really loud creek/popping noise. it happens whenever i accelerate and come to a stop which led me to believe it was the cv axel going into the differential. but it makes the noise when the car is not running and i push down on the strut. i took it for a suspension inspection but they said they found nothing wrong with it.

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Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Throttle Delay / Hesitation When Press The Clutch And Rev The Engine

Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.

Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...

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Golf/GTI VII :: Full Throttle Acceleration - Slight Hesitation As Revs Climb

My GTI is the first FWD car I've had since 1985, so the issue that I'm having may be just me adapting to a front drive platform. Here's what's happening: when I nail the throttle in 3rd or 4th gear, on or about 4K rpm or above, the car feels as if it's hesitating slightly as the revs climb.

It accelerates fiercely (I have the JB1, and I had the Neuspeed Power Module before it, and it's reacted the same way with each mod), and it's almost as if the front end of the car is lifting and struggling for traction (although the traction control light doesn't come on).

Is what I'm experiencing normal FWD behavior? Is it the beginning of torque steer? I only notice this at full throttle--not noticeable at all at partial throttle. Also, it doesn't happen consistently. My car is a performance package manual.

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Dodge - Neon :: 2002 - Revs Up In Park After Throttle Body Cleaned Out

Took my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.

Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.

Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - When Transmission Is In Gear And Throttle Pushed It Revs Up Like It Is In Neutral

The transmission shifts into gear and when the clutch is released it starts to crawl forward. When the throttle pedal is pushed it still revs up the engine normally. But when the transmission is in gear and the throttle is pushed it revs up like it is in neutral. At first I thought this might be a transmission problem but then I figured it might be a linkage somewhere. After looking under the hood and under the car I still couldn't see anything that would cause this problem. I had this car less than a week when this happened and I had to be towed home.

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Celica :: Engine Cut Out - No Throttle Response

Well again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: When Engine Revs It Continue At High RPMs For About 10 Seconds After Letting Off The Throttle

2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2005 - Idle Really Rough / Revs Will Rise And Then Drop Again If Blip The Throttle

I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.

I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.

Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?

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Toyota Celica 2001 - Can't Speed Up (Throttle Limiter)

I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?

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Celica :: ST182 - Poor Acceleration And Bad Throttle Response

Is it possible bad spark plugs and wires affect poor acceleration and bad throttle response.I have no error codes and the engine is rebuilded.Idling sound good.Difficult to start engine first time(seconds after-easy to run the engine).

Tyre size 195/65/15 winter?

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Celica :: Light Throttle Shudder And Rough Idle

I have a 1991 Celica GT. 175K miles. The car recently developed an issue where it jerks back and forth at light throttle, sort of like a newbie trying to learn to drive a stick. It happens at pretty much any speed, but is less pronounced at the higher speeds (45 MPH). In addition, it will not idle at a constant speed and cycles between 1100 rpm and about 300... or kill.

I've taken the throttle body off and IAC valve off and cleaned them both but it didn't change the behavior. If I pinch the line to the MAP sensor, the idle straightens out at about 1100 rpm. Disconnecting the MAP sensor gives good idle, but no performance while driving, so not a solution.

Things I haven't done yet: check continuity on throttle position sensor, checked MAP sensor (how?).

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Celica :: 1992 5SFE Auto Sputters At Half Throttle

My 92 Celica 5SFE 2.2L auto sputters at half throttle. But if I release gas pedal, performance normalizes. I already changed spark plugs cables, ignition coil fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned injectors, replaced timing belt, engine starts right up and idles a bit high, around 1300 RPM when cold in Park, then when warm 800 RPM in drive. I don't know if it's an electrical issue or a vacuum related issue, spark plugs get carbon fouled after driving like this. I'm tired of having all the newer cars pass me by and my car "running" on 3 pistons.

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Celica :: 1991 1.6L - No Startup With Just The Key / Spray Fluid Into Throttle Body

So I have a 91 Celica 1.6L and the problem Im having is that it does not want to turn on with just the key. If I spray Starting Fluid into the throttle body then turn the key, it'll turn on and stay on and even drive without any hesitation. I did the diagnosis test with the jumper wire and the codes I got were :

Code 22: Water Temperature Sensor Circuit Fault (New Sensor)
Code24: Intake air temperature signal fault
Code 32: Air flow meter circuit or vacuum sensor signal fault

I never owned a toyota prior to this so I don't know where to start looking for a solution.

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Toyota - Celica :: Bogs Down And Throttle Does Not Respond After Driving For About 15 Miles?

After driving my car for about ~15 miles it bogs, throttle doesn't respond, if anything makes it worse. And then she dies. I've cleaned my MAF sensor and checked for spark, cleaned the connectors.

The only symptoms it seems to have is-when my A/C is on, the idle will jump from ~1000 RPMs to 700RPMs to 900RPMS etc. Its all over the place every few seconds.-bad gas mileage

My culprits right now are maybe -the fuel filter getting clogged up, -or the fuel pump overheating? (even with a full tank) -or my O2 sensors. Do O2's overheat? I feel like it could be that, given the horrible gas mileage I'm getting.

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Camry :: 07 - Have To Press Brake Pedal Hard To Come To A Complete Stop

I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?

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