Celica :: 1993 - Heat Up Past Regular Operating Temp In Gear?
I have a 1993 Celica GTS 2.2L manual trans. A hose blew on the way to work, got it towed home and repaired the hose. I also checked the Thermostat, it worked fine, replaced it anyways with a new one.
The problem is when it is under stress, in any gear, it will heat up past regular operating temp (all the way to red if left long enough) but as soon as I engage the clutch and put it in neutral, it drops back down to normal operating temp. It will never overheat at idle, only under stress.
I have checked the Radiator, done a flush, it seems to flow fine with no blockages. Also checked the rad cap, no issues. I have gotten the air bubbles out of the cooling system, that did not work either. The only other thing I can think it could be is a degrading water pump. It is still pushing coolant through, but not at a fast enough rate due to degraded blades??Or maybe I have missed something on the Radiator and it could be not cooling the water enough? By the way, this whole engine was re-built 42,000 kms ago, ran like a dream until this happened.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Won't Shift Past Third Gear Until Car Is Warm
I have a 2000 Accent that wont shift past third gear until the car is warm. The car has 140k miles. When I turn on the car and pull onto the high way it sticks in 3rd. I then have to slow down and drive through a small town. When I get on the other side of the small town and get back up to speed it will shift. Over drive is on.
View 4 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Bogs Down Past Partial Throttle
Back in July some time I went out to my Accent (00' 1.5L) to go to work and it didn't want to turn over. Normally it's quick to start. So I turned off the A/C and it started right up. I went about my way. The next day, same thing happened. I thought it might be a camshaft position sensor, figured I'd be ok and headed to work. Got about 2 miles from the house and it died. So I pull over and try to start, no dice. Can't get it to start to save my life. We have it towed to the house and park it. This happened about 3 days before we closed on a new house, and having other cars we decided this needed to stay on the back burner. About a month later, I do some troubleshooting (not enough) and decide that the fuel pump is bad. I don't hear it coming on when I try to start the car. So, I replaced it. Turn the key, still no noise from the fuel pump. So, I leave it sitting for a couple of more months. During this time I've done more research than I care to admit regarding this car. I find out there's a Fuel Pump Check under the hood. I checked all relays/fuses before replacing the fuel pump. But didn't thing to test the fuel pump check. My loss there.
So, Saturday was a nice day I spent about 5 hours with my father and brother-in-law working on the car. First thing we do is Put 12v to it and the fuel pump comes right to life. So, we know it's not the fuel pump. Check the connections with a multimeter, we have voltage where we should and grounds where we should. So relay is working, wires are good. Finally we find a schematic of the fuel system and go hunting for the MFI (Engine) Control Relay. Well, I don't know how it happened since it's inside the car, but when we pulled it, it was rusty as all get out. We replaced it and the car still didn't want to start. Checked for fuel pressure at the rail, yup, we got fuel. So we sprayed some starter fluid into the intake and it finally fired up and ran. But it's not running how it ran when it died on me back in July. This car has been extremely reliable until this point. It's not a race car, but it will do 55-60 comfortably and get 38mpg doing it. Well, after it starts it's idling very rough, surging from 500-1500 rpm. We let it run for about 30 minutes and it continues to surge the entire time but doesn't stall. So I take it out for a test drive, as long as I only give it partial throttle 10-15% it gets up to speed in an acceptable amount of time. But anything more than that and it bogs down and will not accelerate. So I drive it home and park it.
The next day, I change the spark plugs, fill it up with some fresh gas, top off all the fluids and throw some Lucas fuel treatment into the tank. It started much better, but still surges, just not as badly as before. And the acceleration problem remains. I'm going to replace the wires next and see how things go and I've also ordered a new MAF and some other goodies. Oh, car has 133,000 miles on it. I do not know if the timing belt was ever changed and nobody in my family remembers if it was done either. I'm leaning towards being on borrowed time and the timing kit is one of the goodies mentioned. So, I've got a busy weekend coming up. But, I have to get this car back on the road so that my wife who is now commuting 140miles round trip per day can save some money on gas.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2002 - When Restart Car Won't Get Past About 1200 Revs
My 2002 1.5td accent starts from cold every time but if drive about half a mile then stop when i restart it wont get past about 1200 revs. i leave it for 5 mins then runs fine...
View 1 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Oil Pressure Light Occasionally Flicker At Idle / Car Will Not Rev Past 5k
I picked up an 02' accent, 1.5l that i've been intending to use as a commuter car. Drove fairly well on the way back home, but it seems it's got some low oil pressure issues once it's good an hot. As the oil pressure light will occasionally flicker at idle, mind you the car is near dying too.
Or so I thought, it was also misfiring/stumbling fairly badly,
Pulled all connections, cleaned, dielectric grease on them, fixed some of it. And it turns out the fellow who did the timing belt last didn't exactly remember to put the bolts back on the fuel rail.... Okay, that's fixed now.
Put in a little heavier oil, and no more issues with the light coming on, but I do have some lifter noise it seems like.
As well, the car will not rev past 5k in neutral or under load. Air filter is new, and no obstructions through to the intake manifold.
I'd guess based on the missing bolts here and there, the guy was a bit of a hackjob mechanic and i'm guessing has the belt out a tooth or so.... I can't see anywhere to stick a timing light on to verify ignition timing, how to check the timing belt is straight up? It's a bit of a dog compared to the other accent i've been in. The power band is like 2000-3500 and it just won't climb anywhere past that.
Celica :: 2000 - Engine Oil Leakage 2000 From The Rear Of Motor On Driver Side
My 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
View 3 RepliesSaturn :: 2000 - Couldn't Drive Past 5MPH / Tranny Was Slamming Into Gears
2000 Saturn L Series Station Wagon 73,772 miles
The Check Engine Soon light was on this morning but when on highway today and at 70MPH the Service light came on and then the Reduced Power light.
Couldn't drive past 5MPH but when I turned the key off and back on the power returned but the tranny was Slamming into gears. I made it back home but where to go from here.
Impala - Chevrolet :: Sputter And Jerk When Start To Accelerate Past 25 Mph And Get Around 2000 Rpms
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
Celica :: 2000 Is Little Rough / CEL Came On
A while back it was a little rough but not so bad, I ran some seafoam and cleaned the MAF, it made it smoother and the CEL went away, but came back shortly. I'm unsure of the code but I will check soon.
Anyways the code is still there I will try to get it checked soon though, but the car runs like CRAP when the Heat or AC is on.
If at a light, and the ac is on, the idle will drop from 7-800 to below 500 and jump back up to 7-800 and back down to 500, but it will save it self right before it wants to stall. I turn the heater off and bam it's fine. While driving if I turn the heater on you can FEEL the strain it puts on the engine and the rpms drop about 500. So eg you're going at 2500 rpm, with the heater on it will drop to 2000. ALSO the ac sometimes randomly turns on and when it does it has a flashing green light.
I think it may be the MAF, or a loose vacuum, but i'm not sure how the heater is affecting it.
Celica :: 2000 GTS - TPS Replacement On Engine
Where is the TPS on the 2ZZGE engine? I bought an OE part from bap geon and i cant find it on the car to save my life.
View 2 RepliesCelica :: 2000 GTS Won't Crank From Its Own Battery
It's a 2000 Celica gts 6sp manual and it won't crank from its own battery. The alternator and battery are both fine. It cranks and drives fine when jumped from another car, but the dash lights wont even come on unless it's being jumped even after having the battery tested and freshly charged. Could a lost ground or a short cause this?
View 2 RepliesCelica :: 2000 GT - CEL Pop Up / Code P0420
I was just driving and suddenly i had my CEL pop on. I went to pepboys to have them read the code for me and it Came up P 0420. I have been looking up the code and got a few emissions issues but not sure what one to do first. Any link with Main issues for CEL Codes? Or know what it could be?
View 2 RepliesCelica :: 89 GT Idles At 2000 RPM When First Started Up
I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
View 4 RepliesCelica :: 2000 - How To Pop Off Side View Mirror
How to pop off the side view mirror (just the mirror part, not the entire mount)
I know either the bottom slides in, and the top clips in, or vice versa. I don't want to pry off the wrong side and snap off tabs that slide in.
Celica :: 03 GT High Idle From 1100 To 2000 RPM
My girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
View 5 RepliesCelica :: 2000 GT E-Shift Will Not Hold Gear
2000 Celica GTS e shift will not hold gear it just shifts like its in drive....
View 1 RepliesCelica :: 2000 GT - Coolant Temp Sensor Gone Bad
I have a 2000 Celica GT and I suspect the coolant temp sensor has gone bad....the fans are not turning on and I'm not getting any hot air out of the heater.....where is the coolant temp sensor located on this thing?
View 4 RepliesCelica :: 2000 GT - New Output Shaft Seal Leaks
I installed a JDM 2ZZ-GE engine and 6 speed manual trans-axle into my 2000 Celica GT.
I have ran into a interesting problem. I replaced the output shaft seals and now whenever the car is in the air and the suspension is unloaded (the drive axle is pulled slightly from the trans) the drivers side seal leaks a bit of gear oil. The drive axle is snapped into place. Nothing leaks when the car is on the ground.
I did reuse the old drive axles, which had a lot of miles on them but still appeared good and useable. I have been told to replace the new seal because it may be damaged, but I am wondering if it may be that the drive axle end is worn.
I have seen this with harmonic balancers for engines. They even sell a replacement sleeve for harmonic balancers so you can re-use the old worn one.
Celica :: 2000 - Cannot Disable Alarm And Battery Keeps Dying
Installed new motor in 2000 celica gt after blown piston on monday the 17th. From monday 17th to thursday night on the 20th the car battery and alarm worked with no issues.
I was installing the touchscreen and sub in the car the night of the 20th and when i pulled the positive terminal from the battery to power the sub, then reinstalled the terminal but the alarm went off and would not disarm via the remote (that has worked for several years before the repair job). I tried replacing the battery but still nothing. i even check voltage on the remote board to verify output voltage when button was pressed.
I called Audiovox and they had me remove the 10 pin connector to disable the alarm and that worked. i drove the car home the night of the 20th. the morning of the 21st the car started fine and the audio system was installed and working.
The afternoon of the 22nd i went to start the car and it was dead. I have tried disconnecting the audio system to check that but the battery still dies overnight.
I used a amp meter to check the draw on the battery on on saw .94 amp with the door open and light on. i saw .14 amp's with the door shut and no light. This just doesn't seem like enough draw to drain the battery but i still have to pop the clutch in the morning to go to work.
I have noticed that my drivers door does not lock using the controls inside the car. I do not know what kind of alarm system is on the car, it has no markings on the case or the board itself. the serial number did not pull a single result in google. I called audiovox because that's who makes the shock sensor on the car, they say its universal.