Toyota - Corolla :: 1998 - Turns Over But Won't Start
My 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
View 8 RepliesToyota - Camry :: Turns Over Slow But Starts
2004 camry 4 cyl. turns over slow but starts. I checked battery voltage (car not running) it is 12.6 volts. when cranking in dropped to 6.??. The post terminals and cables looked ok but I did not disconnect or remove them to check. How can I verify if it is a bad battery or a bad starter.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 2001 Barely Turns Over When Try To Start It
My 2001 Toyota camry has twice just barely started. The car normally starts just fine but there are 2 times after I had been driving and making frequent stops and starts then the car barely turns over when I try to start it. Both times I did manage to get it started and then it ran fine and when I stopped it at home it restarted fine. Each time I also noticed that the clock had reset itself. There was a period of about 3 weeks between the two times it did this. Both days that this happened it was very hot outside. Why this is happening?
View 8 RepliesCamry :: Toyota 1997 Engine Oil Leak Light Turns On
I have a 1997 Toyota Camry thats leaking oil profusely. Within a week of topping oil, the oil leak light turns on. The mechanic says that leak is somewhere near the engine and he needs to tear it apart to see whats up. Estimates run upto $ 800. I am trying to extract life from the car. Is Lucas stop leak advisable?
View 9 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1993 - Motor Turns Over But It Just Don't Seem To Have Enough Power To Start
The motor turns over but it just don't seem to have enough power to start. Have not tried to arc check from the plug wires. I believe the coil is internal on this model.
View 1 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1995 Will Not Start / Engine Turns But Does Not Engage
My 1995 Toyota Camry will not start, the engine turns but does not engage. I have had the fuel pump, fuel filter, and a relay switch replaced. After each repair the car runs for twp weeks and then will not start. I have had it towed and the mechanics start the car with no problem and they are unable to diagnose the problem. In a month and a half, I have had the car towed 3 times.
View 4 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 2002 - Extreme Swaying On Freeways On Turns And High Winds
My 2002 camry has been driving poorly the last few months with extreme swaying on freeways on turns and high winds. When I took it to Toyota a while back they said they needed to replace the rear sway bar bushings. Sounded right but at the time to avoid all the costs with other repairs, brakes etc, I put it off. Now I took it to the local mech and he says he cannot see anything wrong even after driving andwhere toyota found a rear seal leak he did not pick up on this. I will take it back to toyota ..
View 6 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 2012 - Hesitation Before Accelerating When Trying To Get Back Up To Speed After Making Turns
Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
View 3 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Several Oil Leaks?
This is Toyota Camry 98 with V6 3.0 engine.After smelling burnt oil while driving (mostly during stops, to be more precise), I took the car to Toyota service mechanics. They found leaks in both valve cover gaskets, and a leak from behind the timing belt cover. The leaks from valve covers were dripping onto exhaust, causing the burning smell.
The total repair cost is quoted at around $2k ($700 for valve covers and $1300 for what is behind the timing belt assembly).
Is it worth doing ? My worry is that, since 3 separate seals are failing, it is likely that other seals will start failing soon.Should the whole engine be rebuilt instead ?
Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Shakes And Cuts Off
My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
View 4 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Dash Lights Burned Out
My 22 year old daughter drives my 98 Toyota Camry. The lights in the dash have burned out. I need to find out how to replace those bulbs or should I just tell her to be home before dark or maybe tape a flashlight to the steering wheel?
View 6 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Starts And Stalls Without Giving It Gas?
Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
Camry :: 1998 Toyota Stalling Frequently And RPM Gauge Shaking
I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
Toyota - Camry :: 1998 V6 Front End Rattle When Going Over Bumps At Speeds 20 - 35
My 1998 V6 Camry has rattle on right front and now starting on left too. Bad shocks were replaced and still rattles going over bumps at speeds 20-35. Don't notice on freeway. Car drives fine, no pulling or other problems just irritating noise at slower speeds. Two different mechanics say the Strut mount plate is loose. Could not find any other problems? Is it okay to leave the mount plates in place? Mechanics say other than annoying there isn't a problem.
View 5 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Instrument Panel And Parking Lights Won't Go Off?
I have a 1998 Toyota Camry. A week ago the instrument panel lights and parking lights would not go off after I turned the car off. At first this only happened once or twice but within days it was happening frequestly. In order to get the lights off, I had to turn them off and on frequently in order for the lights to finally go off. I have had the multi function switch replaced but after a few days the problem returned
View 1 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Steering Wheel Shudder After New Tires Have Been Put On
The 98 camry has steering wheel shudder after the new tires have been put on. Do I need alignment. will that work now that my tires are scalloped? The guys at the tire shop balanced the tires. the shudder was there on the old tires too, which were severely scalloped. or pitted. Can i do alignment myself?
View 8 RepliesToyota - Camry :: 1998 - Engine Kicking When Idling Or Accelerating
I got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Sputtering And Stalling When Start Slowing Down Below 30 Mph
I have a 4 cylinder '98 Toyota Camry with 82k miles on it. I got the car second hand from a family friend 7 months ago. About 3 months ago, my engine would sputter and then shut off when I'd start slowing down below 30mph and stopping at lights after I'd been on the interstate. Issue occurs only when I've accelerated quickly during that drive (ie accelerating hard to go up a hill to merge or to pass a slow car).
When I need to stop, if I'm fast enough to get the gear in neutral, hold down the break and rev the engine at the same time, then it most likely won't shut off. It's like trying to do CPR on my car... The spark pugs have been replaced, oil changed, and fluid levels checked but the problem still happens. What could be the problem??
Toyota - Camry :: 1998 - Sputters When Touch The Gas At Low Speeds Inconsistently
My Camry is idling low. Car runs smooth while cold. Car sputters when I touch the gas at low speeds inconsistently. After a brief period it picks up and runs great. It gets worse throughout the day. It is the worst in the evening after driving back from work or town. I have changed the spark plugs. It ran a little better after that. It ran a little better after new front tires. Vehicle is front wheel drive. Just replaced both cv axles but the problem started before replacing them. Also I have replaced the fuel filter. I also introduced a half can of Sea Foam directly into the engine through a vacuum tube and reved it. Lots of black smoke came out. I took the other half of the can and put it in the gas tank with four gallons of super when the fuel was fairly low. It now has more "get up and go" after the initial sputter and better gas mileage but the initial problem is still there.
The problem started after I left the key turned on and killed my battery. A friend jumped me off with his xterra. He revved his engine and I cranked mine and it started that's when this issue started. Car also has a muffler leak in two places. I had the flex pipe redone. The muffler shop had to weld it on. The weld in the front of the flex pipe leaks a bit and the connection after the exhaust manifold and before the flex pipe leaks a bit. This was very apparent when I sea foamed it. The o2 censors ( it has two) are costly. So my next step will be to take then out and scrub them with a wire brush, no chemicals. Also I am going to have the weld touched up on the flex pipe. The mechanic did his best to tighten up the connection after the exhaust manifold and could not get it any tighter.