Camry :: Loud Rattle If Car Started And Placed In Drive / Reverse With AC Turned On

Have been chasing a rattling noise for a while on a 2002 Camry 4 cyl AT.

Here's a brief video: [URL] .....

The conditions when the noise appears are as follows:

Start car, turn AC on, place into drive/reverse. Rattle is present initially, then goes away after driving a bit.

The noise seems to be worse after the car has been sitting overnight.

If car is started and placed in drive/reverse without turning on the AC, then the noise is not present.

If the car is started and the AC turned on and the car is in park/neutral, then the noise is not present.

The tensioner pulley seems to be moving quite a bit in the video. Is this normal?

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I took it to the lexus service center and the person told me something about differential pressure, which I really didn't understand:-). However, he said nothing can be done and its not a safety issue and sent me back home without any fix. I have driven many cars in my life so far and never ever came across something like this. Is it something normal at all?

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I replaced the front hubs and bearings on my brothers 2002 Camry today. He drove less than a block and developed awful grinding noise and it won't move in reverse or drive. It rolls when I put it in park. I had to pull it back into my shop. Is it possible the inner CV came loose and i didn't realize it? It all seemed to go back together fine. The new CV axle nuts were quite tight and slow to put on with my impact gun.

What else could possible go kaput when I re & re hub/bearings? And what a long ugly job to replace those bearings. Don't even think about doing this without a good hydraulic press. Up to the point of getting knuckle off, it was easy job.

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Is there a programming sequence that will keep my 2002 Camry from locking all doors when the vehicle is put in drive/reverse. I realize this is considered a safety feature but I prefer to lock them myself.

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I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.

Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.

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I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.

The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.

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It is not a CLUNK sounds, it is deff more on the side of a metallic clink...

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The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.

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