Accent RB (2012+) :: Extreme Drop In Fuel Mileage
I live in the suburbs, so I do a lot of stop and go driving. For the longest time, I would typically get 25 or 26 mpg city, as per the gauge. I would see the number climb to 41 or so in constant highway driving. I am pretty sure the fuel tank is about 10.5 gallons or so as when the low fuel light comes on, and there is only one bar left on the gas gauge, and I top up the tank, I never put more than about 9.5 - 9.8 gallons in.
All this being said, in the last few weeks I have seen a severe drop in MPG. The gauge is constantly reading about 19.5, when I hit the expressway it will climb a bit, but when I compare the miles driven to the bars on the gas gauge, the bars used to drop at about 20 miles driven, now each bar will drop at around 13-15 miles driven. We are having some extreme cold here in the midwest, as opposed to last winter when I bought the car.
Accent RB (2012+) :: Engine Shudders When Takeoff - Revs Drop To Almost Around 300 - 400
After the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
Accent RB (2012+) :: Squeal Sound Coming From Tires When Driving On Normal Speed
A few weeks ago I heard my car was making this weird noise in the morning, when I go really slow, like when I'm parking in reverse or just getting out of my garage in neutral. It comes from the tires, I don't think the problem is in my breaks, because it doesn't make that sound when I'm breaking and I took my car to the dealer (forgot to mention the sound to them) but they said everything was fine, so my brakes should be fine...
Usually the car makes that squeal-sound in the morning. The sound goes away after I start driving on normal speed (40-45mph).
2012 Accent sedan, 5 speed manual.
Accent RB (2012+) :: Car Loses Handling At High Speeds
Is it just my car, or is it everyone else too? Is it just the thin wheels or is it a lose steering wheel thing? is it fixable or what?
is it possible to tell the dealer to tighten my steering wheel or something? Accent 2012 GLS
Accent RB (2012+) :: Automatic Transmission Slipping At Lower Speeds
I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
Ram / SRT10 :: Sudden Loss Of RPM / Drop To Zero Then Back To Normal After 5 Seconds
I was driving at 60mph and all of sudden rpm drop to zero went back to normal rpm after 5 seconds, pulled over thinking I blew some thing every thing seem normal is this a sensor problem.
2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9l 2wd
Integra :: 1987 Rough Idle / When Stopped RPMs Drop Below Normal
I have done everything I can think of to this car. New; plugs, wires, distributor, battery, fuel pump, fuel filter, relay, and electrical lines to fuel pump. The timing belt is fine. The car has a rough idle and when I am stopped the RPM's drop below normal. Now it won't start. What can I try now?
View 1 RepliesCamry :: RPMs Go As High As 3000 For A Couple Of Seconds And Then Drop To Normal On First Start Up
I've noticed on first start up the RPMs go as high as 3000 for a couple of seconds and then drop to normal even at 68' degrees,is that normal? because if it is what will aspect when the temperature drops to 20 or even lower.It is a 2.5 liter 4.
View 1 RepliesHonda - Accord :: 1999 - Speedometer Drop To Zero Randomly And Immediately Come Back To Normal
I have 1999 Honda Accord LX, 185000 mile, with 4 cylinders. Starts one month ago, the speedometer drop to zero randomly and immediately come back to normal on highway several times. Recently, car stops twice on street. Dashboard panel had no power. It seems electricity shuts off. I turn the key to OFF and turn the key to ON immediately then the car starts OK. The ignition switch was changed since there was a recall for it. What is wrong with my car?
View 3 RepliesFord - Escort :: 1997 - Idle Drop Down To Normal After Few Seconds At Stop Light
1997 escort lx wagon, manual, 173,000 miles... When I stop at a red light or stop sign, it takes 10-15 seconds for the idle to drop down to where it should be, and when I push clutch in to shift gears it doesn't drop down, it stays where it is. No codes are coming up. I'm thinking IAC....
View 9 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Fuel Gauge Display Normal And Occasionally Just Drop Straight To Empty
Got a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
View 2 RepliesNissan - Pickup :: 1997 - Gas Gauge Drop To All Most Empty After Hitting Bump Then Go Back To Normal?
1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto.gas gauge drop to all most empty when driving.then i can hit a bump in the road and it will go back to normal.
View 2 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 At Normal Speeds Car Will Cut Off On Its Own
I've been having this problem for a few weeks now and its getting real bad. When I'm driving along at normal speeds my car will cut off on its own. Also when I'm slowing down the car will jump up 5-600 rpms and at utter and shake a lot and every other time it'll cut off. I've replaced the maf and nothings changed. I'm really hoping it doesn't have to do with the transmission. The car has 241k on it .
View 3 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: Limp Mode For A Second When Cruising At Normal Speeds
Just had this happen to me yesterday and cant figure it out. Cruising at normal speeds and shifting into 5th gear at about 2000 rpm. when to apply throttle and the car chocked or slipped then regained power. Almost like it went into limp mode for a second or traction control kicked in. Im not sure what it could be.
View 11 RepliesGolf IV R32 :: High Pitched Whistling Noise When Driving At Normal Speeds
I seem to have this high pitched whistling noise as I am driving at normal speeds (starts at ~40-45 mph). It seems to coming from my rear drivers side, but I'm not entirely sure. My R has about 78,xxx miles and I haven't done this 80k....
View 5 RepliesSonata NF (2006-10) :: Transmission Noise When Driving For A While At Normal Local Road Speeds
My wife's 09 Sonata SE AUTO 4-cycl.. I drove it last weekend and discovered a strange noise that can be heard after driving for a while at normal local road speeds.
The sound is like a combination of a whine and something that sounds like radio static. It can be heard very easily with the radio off and stopped at a red light. However, this sound also exist while the car is in motion. It becomes more difficult to hear as the road noise increase.
When I shift from D to N while stopped or driving, the noise immediately goes away. When I shift back to D, it sometimes comes back.
The consistent pattern seems to be that the noise will occur after having driven for a while at a consistent speed of at least 30-40mph. If I drive around the neighborhood for a while at low speeds and then stop, the noise will not be there.
I have not made effort to hear it from the outside of the car.
Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Steering Wheel Turns Right On Acceleration And Straightens Normal At Regular Speeds
I noticed my Hyundai steering wheel was off centre about 20 degrees to the left so I took it in for an alignment. The toe was out and the inside left front tire was worn. The alignment is now spot on and I rotated the tires putting the slightly worn to the rear. When I accelerate now the steering wheel turns to the right. If I try to straighten the steering wheel while accelerating the vehicle veers sharply to the left. Odd is while accelerating it drives straight even-though the wheel is approximately 20 deg to the right now. When I let go of the gas and maintain constant speed the wheel straightens out by itself. When I first let go of the gas the vehicle will jerk to the right even though the wheel is straightening.
After this driving is ok - no pulling and drives straight. Only during harder acceleration does the wheel turn. I've had the Sante Fe since new and this is really off now. Has 170K km (100K mi). I know it is torgue steer due to some worn part or bushing but have not been able to diagnose easily. I replaced the lower tie-rod ends. Steering feels tighter but the bad torgue steer is still there. I am inclined to replace the lower control arm vertical and horizontal bushings. Ball joints seem ok when testing with pry-bar. I brought it back to the alignment shop and they verified the alignment was ok, everything was tight and could not identify any obvious issues with the suspension or steering components.
Phaeton :: Surging Of Engine / Momentary Loss Of Power At Normal Highway Operating Speeds
The primary electric fuel pump in the fuel tank of my 2004 W12 failed last month, shortly after I had set out on a cross-Canada trip from Vancouver Island to Toronto. The whole process of diagnosing and identifying the cause of the problem, mitigating it so that I could continue the trip, and finally replacing the fuel pump was kind of complex, so, here's the write-up.
The problem presented itself as a surging of the engine - a momentary loss of power - at normal highway operating speeds. The onset was progressive, but it didn't take very long - only about 60 miles of driving - from the first little cough of the engine until total failure of the pump. The first indication was failure of the car to maintain speed (while on cruise control) when climbing hills. That progressed to failure to maintain speed on flat surfaces, and finally led to the car coasting to a stop, engine stalled, at the side of the road.
I soon learned that if I floored the accelerator pedal and held it against the floor, the car would cough and burp for a few seconds, then take off like a rocket. So, for the next 40 miles, I coaxed the car into the next city by flooring it, accelerating to about 80 MPH, then coasting until the speed dropped to 20 MPH, and flooring it once again and accelerating to 80 MPH. Fortunately, I was on a remote road with few other cars, and no police.
I checked the fuses for the two fuel pumps - fuses 34 and 35 in panel C (above the left battery), and they were both OK.
The next day, I visited a VW dealer in the Canadian Rocky Mountains, and together with the parts manager and one of the technicians, we looked at the Self-Study Guides (SSGs) for the Phaeton, and looked at wiring diagrams. Eventually, we came to a tentative conclusion that the primary electric fuel pump in the fuel tank had failed. The SSGs stated that the primary electric fuel pump (the pump on the right side of the car) operates all the time, and the secondary electric fuel pump (the pump on the left side of the car) only operates during starting and during 'periods of high demand'. That made sense to us - the car started fine, and worked OK when the accelerator pedal was held to the floor (high demand). It just didn't work worth a darn at any other time... the engine would stall, or, the car would not accelerate at all.
Here are two illustrations taken from the SSGs that describe how the fuel delivery system works. The first image is taken from the 'Phaeton Overview' SSG, which applies to all vehicles. The second image is taken from the W12 engine SSG. I kind of suspect that all the Phaetons operate in the same way, regardless of engine, because the fuel tank in all the Phaetons has the same shape - two lower lobes, which means two pumps are required.
Descriptions from the SSGs
I think that there may be an error in the description above. My experience suggests that the right hand pump (identified as G6, above) is the primary pump, and the left hand pump (identified as G23) is the one that switches on during starting and periods of high demand. Note also how the identification of G6 and G23 in the illustration above is reversed from what is shown in the illustration below. I believe that the text and illustration below is correct, and the text and illustration above is incorrect.
The 'effects of failure' in the description above would, I believe, make sense if it was the left-hand pump that failed. In my case, the right hand pump failed, and the effects of failure that I experienced were as I set them out in the beginning paragraphs of this post - quite different from the 'effects of failure' of the left hand pump that are described in the SSG above.
After coming to the tentative diagnosis that the primary electric fuel pump (the right hand pump) had failed, we checked the parts stock status in North America. There was one pump in stock, but it was in the United States, and being that it was a Thursday, the pump could not be delivered before the following Tuesday. I didn't want to spend that much time waiting for it, so, we started thinking about other possible solutions.
If we could somehow get the secondary electric fuel pump - the pump on the left side of the car that only operated during starting and heavy demand - to operate, that just might put me back on the road again. So, I removed the plastic cover from the small relay that operates the secondary pump, and wrapped a rubber band around the relay, thus keeping the relay in the closed position. A short test drive proved that this solution worked just fine, the car once again operated normally. The only "problem" was that the last 25% of the fuel in the tank would be unusable, because that fuel would be left behind in the right-hand lobe of the tank - the lobe with the defective primary fuel pump.
Electric Fuel Pump Relays
Here is an illustration from the Phaeton wiring diagrams identifying the various relays above the left battery.
Here you can see the two relays for the electric fuel pumps. They are identical part numbers.
Here you can see the relay for the secondary electric fuel pump, with a rubber band wrapped around it to keep it continually closed.
Aside from the loss of use of the last 25% of the fuel in the fuel tank, the car worked just fine with the secondary electric fuel pump running all the time. There were no problems noted even under heavy acceleration. It was, however, necessary to physically remove the rubber-banded relay from its position in the relay panel whenever the car was shut down for more than half a hour. The power to this relay comes from Terminal 30 (battery direct) - it is not switched on and off with the ignition as Terminal 15 power is. This meant that if the rubber-banded relay was left in position overnight, the left hand battery would totally discharge, because the fuel pump would operate continuously all night. I discovered this the morning after the first night...
So, for the next 8 days, I drove across Canada, removing the relay each night and replacing it each morning. I didn't bother to remove it when I stopped for meals or fuel. The rest of the 3,000 mile trip was uneventful - except once, when I let the fuel tank run down a bit too close to the 1/4 full mark, and the car began surging again because the left hand lobe of the fuel tank (with the functional secondary pump) had emptied out. That was a close call, but I managed to get to a gas station and refuel.
After arriving in Toronto, I called the parts staff at my home VW dealer and ordered a new primary electric fuel pump. I discovered that the left and right hand pumps are slightly different (the various hoses coming out of the pumps are different), and I also discovered that a pump costs about $400. The parts staff suggested I order two seals (one for each side of the tank), because I would have to remove both the right and left fuel tank covers to change the right pump. The seals were not expensive.
Here are two pictures that illustrate where the pumps sit in each lobe of the fuel tank. Note the fuel filler port on the left side of the pictures (as we know, it is on the right side of the car) for orientation.
Phaeton Fuel Tank, showing pumps
Fuel Pump Access Panels
Below is a picture that shows where the access panels to the two fuel pumps are. It's easy to get to these access panels, just remove the carpeted panel from the floor of the trunk.
Here's a close-up of the right side (primary) electric fuel pump access panel.
The instructions (from the VW Repair Manual, or the ELSA / ErWin system) for replacing the fuel pump are quite well written. The repair manual suggests that the fuel tank be drained before replacing a pump. I didn't want to drain the tank, so, I ran the fuel level down as low as I dared (remembering that 1/4 full is effectively 'empty' with a failed primary pump). That proved to be adequate.
There are a heck of a lot of steps involved in disconnecting all the hoses and loosening the various components before the pump can be removed. I strongly suggest that anyone attempting this task have a printed set of instructions before starting disassembly.
The fuel pump has quite a few hoses and connections on it, but fortunately, each connector is unique in design, thus it is not possible to hook things up the wrong way when installing the new pump. It is possible to 'lose' a hose inside the tank... for this reason, I attached a small piece of string to each hose I disconnected from the pump.
The process goes more or less like this:
1) Remove the two 404 relays, to ensure no power is sent to either fuel pump.
2) Lift the rubber cover, and remove the electrical connections from both pumps (left and right).
3) Using a special tool, lift up the three fasteners that hold the cap over top of the access panel (these are NOT threaded fasteners!)
Here is a side view of the three fasteners that hold the plastic cap in place - they are friction fit, not threaded.
4) Now you have a clear view of the access panel. It will probably be dusty and rusty, and should be vacuumed clean before proceeding, to prevent crap from falling into the fuel tank when the cap is removed. The rust is due to condensation forming on the cold metal part whenever the car is filled with cold fuel from an underground storage tank.
5) A special VW tool is used to remove the locking ring from the access panel.
6) After removing the locking ring, I buffed it up with a wire brush to remove surface corrosion.
7) The plastic access cap can now be lifted. There are two electrical connectors on each fuel pump, but three possible fittings on the plastic cap. Fortunately, the three fittings are keyed differently.
8) This is what you see inside the tank after removing the plastic cap.
9) After following all the detailed instructions for disconnecting and stowing hoses, disconnecting the fuel measurement probe from the pump housing, etc., it is possible to lift the pump out. It will be full of fuel.
10) The old and new pumps, side by side. I was very surprised at the amount of crap that was trapped in the filter screen at the bottom of the pump. The car only has 60,000 miles on it, and I have always used premium fuel in it.
11) I was also a bit surprised at the discolouration of the pump components. Below you can see the old and new pumps side by side.
12) It is necessary to get access to the opposite side (in this case, the left side) fuel pump, because hoses from each pump travel horizontally across the tank and connect to the other pump.
13) Here you can see a new hose from the right side pump connecting into a T fitting above the left side pump. It is easy to thread this hose across the top of the inside of the tank.
14) As mentioned earlier, there are three possible fittings on the base of each plastic cap, but only two connectors within the fuel tank. Everything is keyed, thus improper assembly is not possible.
Once the new pump has been installed, the hoses connected, and the fuel measuring probe reset into the side of the new pump, re-assembly of everything is quite straightforward. I replaced the rubber ring around the access panel opening on each side of the tank, and I also buffed up the locking rings using a wire brush (to remove corrosion) on each side.
It was not a pleasant job - your hands get covered in fuel, and there are some hazards associated with working on an open fuel tank with vapour escaping, but it is not a particularly difficult job. It is time-consuming, though.
Nissan - 300zx :: Engine Surge At Highway Speeds For Several Seconds Then Drops Back Down To Normal
my 1990 Nissan 300zx with 136,000 miles often surges at highway speeds for several seconds then drops back down to normal. the surge is usually 1000 rpm. does not happen if not in overdrive, and will not happen unless having been driving for 15 minutes or so. also seems to occur more on hot days (80 degree +) than on cool days. mechanic has looked at this several times but not yet able to determine why.
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