Accent RB (2012+) :: Starter Engaged And Turned Over And Over But Engine Wouldn't Start

I have about 26,000 Miles on it, this afternoon I tried to start it. The starter engaged and turned over and over and over, but the engine wouldn't start. Then I took the key out, waited 5 seconds, and tried again, it started. It was about 60 degrees out, so it wasn't cold. Half a tank of gas.

This may seem a little petty, but its a 2012 with only 26,000 Miles on it.

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2009 - Pulling To The Left When Go Faster

Ok, maybe point me in the right direction before I take it somewhere. Pulls to left, worse when you go faster, hardly not at all at low speeds. Stops straight. Front left is the Oldest tire, due for replacement. I haven't rotated to try isolate it. Haven't hit anything, just started 2 days ago. Normal wear on the tires. Pressures are all at 32. Bad tire, right?

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Thud Noise When Going Over 15mph And Gets Faster With Speed

My i40 (18 months old and already on it's 5th problem) has just developed an enormous noise (thud thud thud) when going over 15mph and gets faster with speed. If I go into neutral and turn the engine off at speed it is still there. The crazy thing is as soon as I veer or turn right it stops but when I turn left it does not stop. It's really lot and I can feel it through my feet and on the steering wheel. I am taking it into Hyundai (again) but I'd like to understand possible issues before I go in.

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: Noise That Increases When Vehicle Goes Faster And Decreases When Slows Down

This week I noticed a sound that sounds low that increases then the vehicle goes faster and decreases when it slows down. It is not wheel bearing noise. Took a doctors type scope and put it on the pulleys listening for the bearing noise in each pulley and found my alternator pulley making more noise than usual, My car needs new accessory belts so I ordered 3 new belts and will be replacing them soon. I am hoping the noise is from worn belts and not the alternator. If it is the alternator its going to cost me 250 bucks for a rebuilt one. I'm not sure if I can tear the alternator apart and replace the part bearing part. Have to look into this. Is this normal for a car with 161 thousand klm for accessory belt bearings on items to start to go bad? I sure hope the water pump and power steering and ac compressor and ac tensioner last. These all have bearings in them as well.

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Golf/GTI VI :: Proper Method / Mod To Boost Acceleration (0-50km/h)?

The two slow engine is starting to bug me. Acceleration from 0-50km/h is getting a little ridiculous. Any way to improve acceleration performance other than stepping hard on the gas pedal and make it rev. 4km rpm ? When I compare this with my gf's 2.5L Golf its just day and night difference.

I don't want a noisy muffler or anything like that. I have never modded cars before and I'm not planning to go down that route either. After all this engine is over 10 years old right?

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Camry 2012+ :: Bumpy Ride And Makes A Thudding Noise When Go Faster

So I let my son drive my car for the day because i wasn't doing anything. Now once he gives it back i started driving and now my car drives kinda bumpy and makes a thudding noise the faster I go. now i confronted my son(He's 19) and he told me he went to fast over a hill. What seems to be the problem.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Hard Shifting Between Gears And Wouldn't Go Over 45

That said my wife bought a 2001 Accent 1.6L Auto while I was overseas and it's been a great car, about 8 days ago it just crapped out. The reverse went out on her so we took it to get the codes read and on the way it went in limp mode, started hard shifting between gears and wouldn't go over 45 she says. Took it in to the stealership today and they said that the trans is shot as well as showing codes for P1527, P0732, and P0734. I know what the two slippage codes are and I can prolly just replace the speed sensors and that will be fixed but I'm not sure about the reverse and P1527.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Would Turn Over But Wouldn't Start

o my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.

Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.

Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.

After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.

The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.

I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.

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Camry 2012+ :: Car Feels Like Brakes Are Pressed When Coasting / Decelerates Faster Than Normal

My 2012 camry recently had an issue with the acceleration that I took to the dealer and they drain and filled the transmission fluid 3 times and it fixed that.

There is still one issue which I'm not sure is normal or not - when I let the car coast by letting off the gas the car feels like the brakes are being pressed and it decelerates faster than normal. Also, my e-brake seems less tight than before so it doesn't really stop the car from going back when I park it unless I push it really hard.

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Camry 2012+ :: 2015 - Rattling / Buzzing From Passenger Side Door When Going Faster

I made an appointment with the stealership on Monday morning to take a look at my passenger side door. I took a long trip (600 miles roundtrip) and noticed a buzzing/rattling noise when I was going faster than 65-70 miles an hour on the interstate. And on top of that, when I play songs with a heavy, flat bass, the door gets a very noticeable rattle. When the bass punches, it's fine, but not so much otherwise.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Stalling And Wouldn't Start Unless Pumped The Gas While Cranking The Engine

Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).

I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: Engine Wouldn't Turn Over For 10 Minutes (CEL Code P2096)

Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.

We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.

FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.

Historical Issues:

1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.

We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.

I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.

2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.

Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.

It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 - Wouldn't Shift / Kept Revving?

So I was driving on the highway a couple of days ago in my 2012 GTI and I noticed that I was really having trouble getting up to speed. I was going 65 mph and the speed increased to 70, so I tried going faster, only when I pressed down on the pedal nothing happened.

The car just kept revving. Later when I got the city I noticed that the car wouldn't shift, so I put it in manual mode and shifted it myself. Couple of hours later lo and behold the check engine light turns on.

The car is at the dealership now and I just found out it was the fuel pump. My car has only 26,544 miles on it and I have had it tuned by APR but I don't know if that caused the issue.

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2003 - IAC Making Weird Buzzing Sound And Wouldn't Idle Right

2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...

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Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 1.6 Cranks But Won't Start / Car Wouldn't Shift Into High Gear

I have just recently acquired an 01 Accent with the 1.6L and have had a few problems with it. It has about 112,000 miles on it and at about 109,000 it had the following services performed by the previous owner (reputable shop did the work)

-New battery
-New timing belt kit
-New water pump
-New valve cover gasket
-New plugs
-New belts
-New front pads
-New front rotors
-New rear wheel cylinders
-New front CV axles
-New tires all around
-Alignment

Now since I got it with about 111,000 miles on it, it ran and drove great until I had to put a new alternator on it as well as having to take the center console and automatic shift lever out to repair the wires for the O/D button. Car wouldn't shift into high gear. The problem I am having now is the car will crank but it will not start. Not even a sputter. I drove the car to and from work the day previous and then went out and started it to go to work in the morning and it started fine and ran fine for a minute or two then it just died like I turned the key off. No spitting or sputtering like it was running out of gas just died completely. Checked a few fuses and such and really not sure where to go from here because I don't have a code reader and don't wanna just throw parts at it, I would rather troubleshoot the problem.

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Golf/GTI VI :: 2012 Engine Would Bounce But Wouldn't Start

Quite literally just received the buyout agreement yesterday. My wife went out this morning to leave and the car turned over a couple times but wouldn't start. I went out and tried it and it would turn over, the engine would (pretty violently) bounce, but wouldn't start. The 4th or 5th try (as you see in the video below) started. Turned it off and tried again and just click, click, click. Seems like a classic case of a dead battery? Not seen a GTI react so violently to having a low battery before though...

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Accent MC (2006-11) :: Stop Light Switch Sticking So Brake Lights Wouldn't Work Properly

I am the owner of a 2009 Accent L (Canadian model) sedan. I have had this car from brand new and I have had two warranty issues with this car in the last 6 months. First at approx.36000 miles (60000Km) the stop light switch started sticking, so the brake lights wouldn't work properly. The second issue was the turn signal/ headlight combo switch malfunctioned and started to smoke. The dealer replaced these under warranty after some hassles.

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Camry 2012+ :: Speed Odometer Is Faster Than Radar Detector Speed?

I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?

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Accent RB (2012+) :: Right Light Keeps Going Out

So, I recently purchased a new HID kit for my car, with a harness and power source from the battery and everything. But the problem is my right light keeps going out. I had trouble when I first installed it so I switched the ballast and it still had the same problem on the same side, so jiggled around with the ground for a little and it worked. Later it went out again and while driving it went back on and for the next two days it worked. It's out again now and I have yet to play around with it.

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