Accent MC (2006-11) :: Intermittent Hard Start When Cold / Damp
Gremlin that causes the car to take a few tries to start when it is cold or damp? I've read that the crank sensor and fuel pump/fuel injection relays are possible culprits, but since the crank sensor is almost $100 I'm hesitant to throw money at an intermittent problem without a 100% diagnosis
-No codes in computer
-Brand new battery
-Mint NGK Platinum spark plugs
-Runs like a top once it starts
-5W20 synthetic oil
Usually it starts first flick of the key. Sometimes first flick fails no matter how long i hold it, then second flick it starts fine. If its really cold it sometimes takes up to 5 attempts. It cranks but doesn't "catch". The actual cranking itself is very strong with no hesitation which tells me it isn't starter, battery or thick oil.
Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Intermittent Hard Shifts When Moving From A Cold Start
I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
View 2 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: Hard To Start When Have Low Fuel
My car has a bit of trouble starting every now and again. I have noticed it is when I have low fuel. When I try to start it it will just keep winding over. I'll switch my car off completely and try again. It usually starts the second or third time. What could be the problem? Its a 05/06 Hyundai Accent
View 4 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: Hard To Start After Filling Gas Tank
My wife's 2007 Accent started having starting problems right after filling the tank. Is this an EVAP canister problem?
View 8 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: Hard Start And Stumble At Takeoff
09' Auto accent developed an issue that I haven't been able to sort out. Car began experiencing a condition where it was harder and harder to start, over about a 2 day period. As well, when stopped at a light it would idle fine, but almost stall when you tried to accelerate. Once above about 2k rpms it was fine, but then near 4k rpm it felt dead, didn't want to pull.
Only code was P0171.
Here is what I have checked thus far.
All injectors ohm out exactly at 15.1
-Fuel pump primes at key on like it should
-Verified cam/crank are timed properly (timing belt didn't slip a tooth)
-Car is MAP based, so no MAF to deal with. It's totally stock down to the paper air filter.
-Purge solenoid is closed and appears to be functioning properly.
I was checking things last night and this time it didn't want to start at all. I haven't checked for injector pulse or spark (it's coil on plug), but this didn't seem like part of the issue it was experiencing. Almost feels like a cam or crank sensor going out (timing is acting weird). Is there a relatively easy way to test the cam or crank sensors other than just trying new ones?
Accent MC (2006-11) :: Hard Start After Adding Fuel Or Fill Up
My 07 has difficulty starting, only after adding fuel, or a fill up. I thought at first it was due to over filling, but it occurs after adding any amount of fuel. If I leave the car running while attempting to fill up, it sputters and dies. I have to press the gas pedal to the floor to start it, and it sputters for a few minutes, then runs fine, and starts fine until fuel is added once again. I searched and found where the General mentions a Vapor hose, but could not find more.
View 2 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Tachometer Reading 0 And Rough Idle / Hard To Start
I have a 2010 2-door accent, automatic. Today after driving about 45 minutes (engine warm), I stopped the car. When I tried to start again, it wouldn't turn over. Turned over on the third try; tachometer read at 0. Managed to drive home (35 miles), and the car did shift from gear to gear, but engine sounds tinny on idle. Turned off car at home and turned back on, still rough start and tinny idle but tachometer appears to be working again. No check engine light. At a loss; I've heard that there are a couple of crankshaft sensors that could do this, but I really don't know. Car is regularly serviced and has new belts (belts look fine), new strut plates, new tranny fluid, all about 6 weeks ago.
View 2 RepliesLexus ES 2013+ :: Intermittent Start Up - Key Icon On Dash At Times
Key icon on dash at times = low fob battery? No low battery warning print lit up. Also so happened a couple times on my GS.
View 2 RepliesDodge - Ram :: 1996 - Intermittent Fuel Pump Malfunction - Have To Turn Ignition Several Times To Start
Intermittent fuel pump problems in '96 Dodge ram resulted in new fuel pump 50,000 miles ago. Happened again 100 miles ago, so another new fuel pump. Now to start car must turn the ignition on several times before going to the start position. It appears the latest new pump may have defective one way check valve, so the pressure is depleting after turn off. Any favorite brand of fuel pump for the Dodge "pump in the gas tank" arrangement? Or solutions such as installing an external pump to do the work of pumping the fuel?
View 1 RepliesGeo - Prizm :: 1993 - Intermittent Push To Start / Engine Idle Speed Too High At Times
1993 Geo Prizm, manual transmission: Intermittent failure to start over a two year period, gradually becoming more frequent. The engine turns over every time the key is turned to start the engine, i.e. the starter motor/battery/battery connections work flawlessly. Once started the engine runs flawlessly without misses or shut downs. The only possible problem may be the engine idle speed that seems at times to be too high even after the engine is warmed up. Without predictability, the engine may fail to start when the key is turned.
Remember the engine still turns over normally. It just does not fire up. Two options exist for my predicament. That which is resorted to the most because of the speed of recovery: step out of the vehicle and push start the car by popping the clutch. The other alternative which I have been forced to utilize before because of the physical impossibility of push starting (i.e. if I had been able to push, I would have popped the clutch to start) at the time has been to wait for a protracted period and re-attempt to key start the car. This has been successful a couple of times.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: Have To Start Car Almost 3 Times Plus Hit The Gas Pedal To Get It Working
2001 hyundai accent, HARD TO START. I have to start the car almost 3 times plus hit the gas pedal to get it working. I already replace battery, starter, spark plugs, spark plug wires and air filter.
View 9 RepliesAccent MC (2006-11) :: Starting With A Try Of Three To Four Times And Then Giving Knocking Sound
I am seeking to identify a problem my hyundai accent model 2009. when it s cool or started with a time period gap between four to five hours. it some times not start with a try of three to four times and then start but giving some knocking sound, it went away after five minutes . once start and warm it is ok and again started when warm.
I did computer check but it result is normal and have changed also the spark plug and fuel filter but problem still exist. the problem may in timing belt -or fuel pump may any other reason.
Dodge - Neon - Misfire - Clutches :: Hard To Start At Times
I've had problems recently with my 03 Neon:
1) The CMP sensor throws codes constantly and the car is really hard to start at times. I replaced it a year or two ago with a generic part. From what I've read elsewhere, Neons hate non-Mopar parts for this so I just got a Mopar replacement and will drop it in when I get the valve cover back on. Does it make sense that a replacement could go bad w/in 20k miles or so?
2) Cylinder 1 misfired pretty hard. I accelerated on the highway and heard a thunk or thud w/ a loss of power. As the only code I got was a misfire I drove it home slowly (about a mile). Could this be caused by fouled plugs from the repeated hard starting? (I lived with the CMP sensor being bad through the MN winter cause I didn't want to replace it until it was warm). Should I look into this more? The thunk really worries me...
3) Last spring at about 95k miles I noticed what felt like my clutch slipping a lot. It would almost always slip under even partial acceleration at highway speeds and occasionally at lower speeds. I'd notice the rev increase w/o increasing tire speed. I took it to a major chain and they took a week to replace the clutch... but ever since then I've felt occasional slips. Did they do their job? Or is there something else here? I don't have a tach but I have a scan gauge ii hooked up which does show rpm increasing significantly w/o speed increasing.
Hyundai - Accent :: Alternator Doesn't Start Charging Battery Until Engine Is Revved A Couple Times
2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
Accent MC (2006-11) :: 2010 - Sputters At Idle With Intermittent Exhaust
For a couple months now, maybe longer, my 2010 Accent has developed a funny "rough sputter" I would call it at idle. It seems to be getting worse and worries me now. The RPMs fluctuate as it happens. The CEL has never come on throughout this. I'm not 100% sure it's not present when driving.
I did not replace the Fuel Filter at four years or the Fuel Air Filter at two years & four years. Could this be a Fuel Filter related problem?
I got out of my car today to listen to it and noticed the exhaust was intermittent along with hearing the car sputter.
Accent MC (2006-11) :: Intermittent Loss Of Power And Dieseling Noise After Warming Up
After I drive a while I get a ticking , loss of power very briefly, white puff of smoke. Could it be rod bearings? Timing belt just replaced.
View 1 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: Intermittent No Start After Filling Up / Cranking But Not Firing Up
I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Buick - Regal :: 1993 - Intermittent Hard Start / Idles Roughly
1993 Buick Regal 3.1l V6 Multiport injection
Problem: The care currently has a hard start, and a fluctuating idle. I bought the car a year and a half ago it still has low miles about 94,000. The care used to start fine but had a fluctuating idle in the range of 750 to 2500 rpm. My brother who is a mechanic and doesn’t live near, do all the gaskets when he visited. Then the idle fluctuation dropped to 750 to 1000rpm, when the car rpms fluctuate there is a whirring sound I can hear from the cab, like a pump or pull system. On occasion there is a vibration as well but it is inconstant and irregular. Fuel pressure seems to fluctuate as well. If the car will not start I give it a little gas and it will run fine after a minute or two, but then the idle starts to fluctuate.
No fuse issues I can tell and relays seem to be fine.Checked for lose wiring connections found, none. I have replaced:
- Hoses and gaskets
- Starter motor
- Battery
- Fuel Pressure regulator
- Fuel Filter
- Spark plugs and wires
- TPS
- Idle Air control Valve
- Crank shaft sensor
- PCV.
Right now I’m thinking it could be the fuel pump (a nightmare to change on this car), a fuel injector failing, and the ignition switch.
Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2004 - Intermittent Wipers / Start Then Stop Half Way
The front intermittent wipers on my 2004 hyundai accent will start then stop half way,continue all the way in the same direction then return half way and finally park. I have replaced the wiper stork switch and wiper relay [blue one in engine bay fuse box]. What controls the intermittent function? is it the bcm? and where's located?. I also have 2000 accent and its fitted with an intermittent wiper relay p/n95240-33000. The '04 is not fitted with one. I have contacted Hyundai and they weren't support.
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