Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: P0463 And P2067 - Fuel Sensor On Instrument Cluster Doesn't Work And MIL Is On
2007 Santa Fe Limited. The matter is that, fuel sensor on instrument cluster doesn't work and MIL is on. I replaced both fuel sensors and it didn't work. May be instrument cluster is bad? Or should I replace ECU? I don't know what to do.
View 3 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Speedometer And Fuel Level Indicator Blank - Instrument Cluster Failure
While traveling speedometer and fuel level indicated blanked out. No other problems--I could see our speed by using GPS.
Toyota service said a circuit board was burned out. I searched and found numerous such problems with 04 up to 09 and eventually (in 2012) Toyota initiated an extended warranty to cover replacement of the board.
Gasoline - Chevrolet - Blazer :: 2001 - Fuel Pump Quit Again?
I replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 chevy blazer last year and it just quit again two days ago. Internet research leads me to believe it is a common problem in chevy turcks. Blazer stops running, sits for a few hours to a day and then starts up again. Is it going to happen again and is it really the fuel pump.
View 4 RepliesChevrolet - Blazer :: 2002 - Intermittent Fuel Pump / Not Work Only When Tank Is Full
I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Loss Of Power Windows And Instrument Cluster
I was installing a brake controller and repair wiring at the seven pin today for a customer and noticed when I began work I have no power windows, power seats, or instrumentation on the dash. Truck otherwise runs fine.
Got wiring for the brake controller straightened out and thought I could get the other stuff working, but I went through all the fuses and could find nothing amiss. Several comments on the Internet about a power saver relay board built into the back of the instrument cluster. Does that fit these symptoms?
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2012 F350 - Change Out Instrument Cluster With Mph Cluster?
I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
View 4 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Few Bulbs Out On Instrument Cluster?
My 06 instrument cluster has a few bulbs that are out. I have seen the video on how to remove and send off to be repaired but have not seen any thing on how to replace bulbs. Is this something that I can do myself? Is there "kit" to replace all the bulbs? Where can I get the bulbs? Here is a pic of my panel.....
View 14 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Instrument Cluster Went Dead
Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
View 14 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: Cluster Won't Turn On / Fuel Pump Will Crank Over But Car Not Starting
So, before we diagnose further, i have my fuse #43 pulled because that has been the only thing that somehow magically makes my car run when its not plugged in. I believe I've been dealing with a bad distributor and haven't come up with the funds yet to mod it for a v6 mustang coilpack.
BUT as the title describes, this just started happening today. The cluster wont turn on, fuel pump is cranking over, and the starter will whine as it cranks but no spark. Is the distributor getting that bad or am i looking at something worse?
Passat (B5) :: 2001 Won't Start Dead Instrument Cluster And Power Windows
I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
Passat (B6) :: Power To The Radio And Instrument Cluster Will Get Distributed But Engine Won't Turn
These last few days I've been having issues at startup. Ill put the key into the ignition and it will just click once or twice without anything happening. Power to the radio and instrument cluster will get distributed but the engine wont turn. Then the other day the engine would turn on for a brief moment but turn off within ten seconds. Whats going on?
View 2 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - How To Remove Instrument Cluster
I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
View 9 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Instrument Cluster Won't Working At All?
I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
View 13 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Half Of Instrument Cluster Not Working
So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
View 2 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Instrument Cluster Right Side Is Not Working?
My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
View 4 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - High Voltage Blanks Instrument Cluster
Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: E350 - Instrument Cluster Not Working After Electrical Wiring Mistake
I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 - Instrument Cluster / Radio And Power Windows Go Dead Intermittently
I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
View 14 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Whining Sound / Low Fuel Pressure And Reduced Power Warning - Fuel Pump Just Died
So, I just had the fuel pump replaced on my '15 6.7 a month ago and it just died again. (next day edit: it didn't actually die, it showed all the same symptoms)
Same symptoms: whining sound, low fuel pressure warning, reduced power warning.
This time I'm 50 miles from home so I pulled off the road before it shut off. Interesting, I was in a hilly area and my low fuel warning came on too. We are waiting for a tow. I was considering trying to push on but don't want to get stuck in a dangerous spot on the highway. We're in a church parking lot.
So, last time this happened I was on flat road with about a half tank of fuel on a lunch break. I ran a mile after the warnings came on to feel out the issue and to see what would happen. I happened to be only about a mile away from my dealer so I drove that way. I got reduced power warning and then it cut power on me (limp mode). I made it to about 100 yards away before it cut off.
This time, I was in a hilly area at night on a windy two lane road with no shoulders in the woods. I was miles from civilization and was showing below a quarter tank of fuel. ~100 miles to EMPTY. I got the low fuel pressure warning first and then the reduced power mode before the whining noise started. I was climbing a hill on a curve at the time. I drove a quarter mile and then pulled off the road into a parking lot so I wouldn't be stuck on the shoulder. It didn't actually go into limp mode.
I let it sit a few minutes, talked it over with the wife and decided to call for a tow. After talking to the tow truck driver who said he would be an hour because he had to go find a bigger truck, I decided to see what I could do while I wait. I fired it back up and the fuel level dropped to below 1/8 and I was now showing 33 miles to EMPTY. I was parked on a hill with the back end up. I had backed the truck into a space to make it easier for the tow truck driver. I let it run a minute, checked for leaks and it seemed to run fine with no studdering or additional warning lights.
CEL was on but no new warnings. I put in my code reader and pulled the P0087. Just one code. I revved it a bit to see if there were any issues. It seemed fine so I decided to try my luck. I started driving towards home with the intention to stop at the first diesel station to fill up. Truck ran fine. After two minutes of driving gently, heart racing, my fuel level came back up and it now read 88 miles to EMPTY. I drove 11 miles to the nearest station and filled up. No issues. I shut it down. I fired it back up. Still no issues so with a full tank, I drove home the remaining 30 miles without issue.
Planning to take it in to the dealer Monday to get it checked. Could this be from an air pocked due to low fuel level and hilly terrain? Is my new pump dying already? Is there something else going on inside the tank or elsewhere?